Stop shooting at 100 ISO!

There was a time, not long ago, when shooting at the lowest possible ISO—100—was a priority for me. Today, I don’t care.

Can you guess the ISO used in the photo above? 25,600! Yet it looks like it was taken at ISO 800 or lower. Thanks to the performance of cameras like my Canon R6 Mark I and the power of post-processing software such as DxO PureRaw (my favorite), Topaz Photo AI, and Lightroom Classic, it’s now possible to achieve remarkably low noise levels—easily cleaned up with these tools. 

Results like the photo above made me change my default approach—from manually selecting the ISO to simply using Auto ISO.

A shot that I'm looking to replicate this year

Back in 2018 I took this picture. 

In St. Augustine, Florida, the Castillo de San Marcos, a 17th-century Spanish stone fortress, hosts historical reenactments that include live cannon firing demonstrations. These are part of educational and ceremonial programs conducted by National Park Service rangers and reenactors in Spanish colonial uniforms. I was lucky enough to be there at the right moment when this ceremony was being played in 2018 and managed to get this shot. According to Google these demonstrations, still, usually take place at on weekends at 10:30 AM, 11:30 AM, 1:30 PM, 2:30 PM, and 3:30 PM. We will be there on a weekend and be busy during Saturday shooting a Karate competition, but we are planing to visit the downtown on Sunday. 

That's the logistic behind the shot. Technically, I shot this picture using a Nikon D5200, at 1/800 with an ISO of 100.  Now I'm armed with a Canon R6 Mark I, I'm planning to take a Tamron 28-300mm on this trip to have more flexibly in the angle. From the point of view of settings, I'll set the camera in Shutter Priority with the lens wide open and Auto ISO with a shutter speed of 1/1000. Shutting a fast burst, I do not see a chance of missing the shot with the Canon R6 and these settings. A key point is to start shooting right before the cannon is fired.

As you can see, if you want to capture specific shots, you need to analyze the situation and mentally prepare a plan that includes your camera settings. This is where knowing how to shoot in Manual, Aperture Priority, or Shutter Priority becomes a real advantage. Shooting in full Auto, on the other hand, is unlikely to deliver the results you're after.

By the way, I used ChatGPT to check these settings and surprisedly enough, this AI took recommended the same settings. 

Here is an interesting fact, I asked ChatGPT how using the Tamron 28-300 lens would affect my shooting strategy and here is the answer:

How the Tamron 28-300mm Affects Your Setup

🔹 1. Variable Aperture Lens

• The max aperture shrinks as you zoom:

  • At 28mm: f/3.5

  • At 300mm: f/6.3

• Implication: If you're shooting at the long end (which you probably will), the lens is limited to f/6.3, so less light reaches the sensor. This may force:

  • Higher ISO (expect ISO 400–1600 depending on light)

  • Or slower shutter speeds if you're in Aperture Priority — which is why Shutter Priority is the better choice here.

✅ Your Move: Stick with Shutter Priority and set a minimum of 1/1000s. Let the camera open the aperture (up to f/6.3 at 300mm) and raise ISO as needed.

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🔹 2. Image Stabilization (VC)

• The lens has Vibration Compensation (VC), which helps with camera shake, especially at longer focal lengths.

• BUT: It won’t help freeze subject motion (like the flame/smoke). That’s where fast shutter speed matters more.

✅ Your Move: Keep VC enabled for handheld shots, but don’t rely on it to freeze fast action.

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🔹 3. Autofocus Performance

• This lens is versatile, but its autofocus speed isn't as fast as a high-end Canon RF lens.

• It might hunt in lower light or with fast-moving subjects — but for a static cannon setup, it’s fine.

✅ Your Move: Pre-focus on the cannon (manual focus or AF-ON button). Use Servo AF only if people are moving into the frame.

Between the EF70-200 L and the Tamron 28-300, ChatGPT selected the EF70-200 for this shot, but also mentioned the fact that the Tamron 28-300 was going to give me more flexibility, specially when I'll be shooting different scenarios in this visit. 

 

 

Never struggle with autofocus again

 I wish I had watched a video like this one from Jan Wegener explaining how to achieve focus in all wildlife photography situations when I started photographing birds and other animals. 

 If you have not subscribed to his channel, go ahead and do it. You won't regret it. 

Our grandsong Liam is asking

He asked where I photographed the hummingbirds and how I did it. He's only 8 years old, but he's already shown some interest in photography. Furthermore, he owns a point-and-shoot camera and understands how difficult it is to photograph wildlife—especially birds. 

 All the hummingbirds pictures I have been posting lately were taking at a local park, the Crews Lake Wilderness Park. I have been visiting this park every weekend for the last two years. During this period of time I have seen hummingbirds few times and managed to take one or two pictures of them. 

But over the past two weeks, I've taken nearly 50 pictures of them, both perched and in flight, and that probably sparked his curiosity. 

How did I do it?

As with any other wildlife, the first step is to know where they’ve been seen. There are many online sources where photographers and birders report their sightings. But in this case, I had spotted them a few times myself, so I knew for a fact they were there. The next step was to take note of where I saw them and what plants and flowers were in those areas. I noticed that they were particularly attracted to a flower called by locals Firebush (Hamelia patens). It's a native plant to Florida and other tropical regions, known for its tubular, reddish-orange to yellow flowers, which are very attractive to hummingbirds and butterflies. I spent time, hours, watching when and how often the hummingbirds visit the plants. Taking note of their preferred flowers and approach patterns — they tend to follow routines.

Hummingbirds flap their wings up to 70 times per second, so I used a shutter speed of 1/4000 ~ 1/5000 to freeze motion. For wing blur (artistic effect), you can try around 1/500s to 1/1000s, but that did not work for me because they were moving too fast from one flower to another. Using these fast shutter speed will result in a high ISO (25600) specially if the flowers are located in a shaded area. That means that a good post editing software is needed to clean the noise in these pictures. I used LrC and DXO PureRaw. 

I was predicting their flying pattern, pre-focusing in particular flowers, making it easier to focus on the bird approaching that area. Be patient, I spent hours standing quiet without moving to be sure that they got used to my presence. In 3 hours, I managed to take just 10 or so good pictures.  

You need to shoot bursts, in my case, using a mechanical shutter mode, from 4 to 12 frame per seconds in my Canon R6. Do not be surprised if you get one or two good pictures in each burst.  

Of course, you need a zoom lens for these photos. If the hummingbirds notice you, they for sure will fly away. This is why to be quiet and without moving is that important. 

 

Dear Liam, I know that at just 8 years old, you might not understand all the technical things I’ve mentioned here — and that’s perfectly okay. In time, you’ll learn all of it. The key word is time.

When it comes to photographing wildlife, being patient is essential. Staying quiet is very important. Moving slowly is key. Many animals and birds are territorial, and if you follow these simple rules, they’ll feel safe and return to the places they like. All you have to do is wait — and be ready to press the shutter button.

 

ChatGPT, wonderful tool for photographers.

 I ran an experiment with ChatGPT to check its logic picking lenses for my next trip. Here is what I asked:

From these lenses, which 2 would you pick to travel with: Canon EF70-200mm L, Canon EF28-80mm L or Tamron 28-300mm? 

And here is the response: 

For travel, I’d pick the Tamron 28-300mm and the Canon EF 70-200mm L — here's why:

1. Tamron 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3

• Ideal for travel: One-lens solution covering wide to telephoto.

• Lightweight and versatile: You can shoot landscapes, street, portraits, and even some wildlife without switching lenses.

• Compact: Compared to carrying multiple L lenses, it’s easier to manage while walking or hiking.

2. Canon EF 70-200mm L

• Excellent optical quality: Razor-sharp images, fast focus, great for portraits and distant subjects.

• Durability: Built like a tank, perfect for serious travel and challenging weather.

• Pairs well with the Tamron: You can use the Tamron most of the time and switch to the 70-200mm when you want top-quality shots, especially for wildlife or compression shots.

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Why Not the 28-80mm L?

• Great image quality, but...

• Too much overlap with the Tamron’s range.

• Less useful on its own unless you're only doing general street and landscape photography — and even then, the Tamron can cover that plus more.

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If weight is critical:

Only take the Tamron 28-300mm. It covers almost everything, and you’ll save space and effort.

If image quality and reliability are more important, and you're okay carrying two lenses:
Tamron 28-300mm + Canon 70-200mm L is a powerful combo.

End of the Response. 

As you can see, it makes a lot of sense and the response is technically correct. The Tamron 28-300 while is not that sharp, it's a decent lens that I have used before in some occasions. Here is one of the pictures I took using this lens. 

  I think that I'll follow ChatGPT advise. 

Initiating your kid into Wildlife photography

Wildlife photography—when taken seriously—is an expensive hobby. Even an entry-level camera paired with a decent lens can easily reach the $1,000 mark.

If you search on Amazon, you'll find a flood of inexpensive, often Chinese-made cameras marketed for kids. But let’s be honest: I haven’t come across a single one that delivers decent image quality—whether in still photos or video—despite their impressive claims about megapixels and 4K resolution.

So, what should you do if you have a child under 10 years old who’s starting to show a real interest in wildlife photography?

The answer lies in the second-hand market. If you're patient and avoid jumping on the first deal you see, you can find older bridge cameras for under $100.

I’ve been searching for a decent camera, with a good zoom and the shape and feel of a DSLR—something that’s really important when buying for a 10-year-old who’s constantly watching you use your gear and already has a sense of what a "real" camera looks like.

After some research, I’ve narrowed my options down to two Fujifilm models (Amazon links do not represent the best price for used cameras):

•     The Fujifilm S4200, with a 576mm zoom
•     The Fujifilm S8200, with a 960mm zoom

You can find more technical details about both cameras here. 

I'm not claiming these are the best options out there—if you have any recommendations, feel free to leave a comment below.

Keep in mind that for a kid, a camera is, among other things, a toy—and toys tend to take a fair amount of abuse. That’s the main reason why, in your first attempt to introduce them to more serious photography, you probably don’t want to spend more than $100.

Depending on how long the camera lasts (and how interested they stay), you can always move up to a higher price range with better features and image quality later on.

Another example of the use of Panoramas

I've already mentioned how I use panoramas to photograph close objects that don't fit within my angle of view due to using a zoom lens.

Today I'll show you another picture I took last weekend using this technique. 

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Believe it or not, the above picture is composed by 5 pictures. I was too close to this plant and with my zoom lens it was impossible to end with this composition. Below you can see one of the pictures used to create this one. 

All about camera modes

If you're just starting your photography journey, you might believe that reaching a professional level means mastering Manual Mode. After all, it offers full control over your camera settings and unlocks creative possibilities.

While this is partly true, it's important to consider whether Manual Mode is actually the best fit for your photography style. In many cases, other modes may be easier to use and can help you achieve better results more efficiently.

This video can help you in the process of understanding the camera modes and to pick which one is the best configuration for you. 

 

Using panoramas or photo stacking to achieve more details

 When you mention a panorama photo most of us imagine a large landscape picture no thinking that you can use panoramas for other reasons. For example, to achieve a bigger level of details or sharpness or to fit a large object in your picture when you are using a zoom lens instead of a wide angle lens. The below picture is an example of these two techniques using LightRoom Classic to create the panorama.  

If your goal is to achieve the highest level of detail in a panorama, it's important to take multiple shots while adjusting the focus as you change the portion of the image you're capturing. Imagine your final picture divided into smaller quadrants. Focus your camera for each quadrant and capture the shot.

Next, repeat the process, but this time shift your quadrants so they overlap differently from the previous set, focusing on each one again. This technique ensures that the entire panorama remains sharp when stitched together. I find that this works better if you are shooting a landscape in portrait/vertical orientation.

The example below illustrates a panorama created with an insufficient number of quadrants. As a result, some areas are out of focus where they should have been sharp.

Keep in mind that Lightroom may refuse to create a panorama if your photos are not aligned along the vertical or horizontal axis. In such cases, you'll need to use Photoshop's stacking option instead.

Here is a very useful article describing the use of photo stacking for this purpose.

Using EF lenses in your R Series camera?

 

The choice between EF and RF lenses on Canon mirrorless cameras depends on a few factors, including your budget, existing gear, and what you're shooting. Here's a breakdown to help you decide:

EF Lenses on Canon Mirrorless

Canon’s EF lenses are designed for their DSLR lineup but can be used on RF-mount mirrorless cameras with the Canon EF-EOS R adapter (or third-party equivalents).

Pros of EF Lenses:

1. Wide Selection: Canon has been making EF lenses for decades, offering a massive range of options at different price points.
2. Affordable Used Market: EF lenses are readily available on the used market, often at lower prices than RF lenses.
3. Compatibility: Many EF lenses work flawlessly on RF-mount cameras when using the adapter, retaining image quality, autofocus and image stabilization.
4. Long Reach for Wildlife: Telephoto EF lenses, like the 100-400mm or 600mm primes, are popular among wildlife photographers.

Cons of EF Lenses:

1. Bulky Setup: The adapter adds extra length and weight, which might feel less balanced on smaller mirrorless bodies.
2. Not Fully Optimized: While EF lenses work well, RF lenses are designed to take full advantage of mirrorless technology. My recommendation is to stick to "L" EF lenses. 3rd party lenses from Tamron or Sigma may look attractive with a low price but they may not work properly in the R Series Camera.
   

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RF Lenses on Canon Mirrorless

RF lenses are specifically built for Canon’s mirrorless R-series cameras, like the R3, R5 Mk I or II and the  R6 Mark I or II.

Pros of RF Lenses:

1. Better Image Quality: RF lenses are optimized for mirrorless, often delivering sharper images, better edge-to-edge sharpness, and improved bokeh.
   
2. Advanced Features: Many RF lenses include advanced optical technologies like faster autofocus, customizable control rings, and superior stabilization.
3. Compact Designs: Certain RF lenses (e.g., the RF 50mm f/1.8 or RF 70-200mm f/2.8) are more compact than their EF counterparts.
4. Future-Proof: Canon is heavily investing in the RF system, so you’ll be better positioned for future upgrades.

Cons of RF Lenses:

1. Higher Cost: RF lenses are generally more expensive than EF lenses.
2. Limited Budget Options: While the RF lens lineup is growing, there are fewer affordable choices compared to EF.
3. No Third-Party Autofocus Lenses (Mostly): Until recently, third-party lens manufacturers couldn’t produce autofocus RF lenses, though this is starting to change.

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Which Should You Choose?

1. If you already own EF lenses: Stick with them and use an adapter. Canon’s EF lenses are still excellent, especially for wildlife photography with telephoto lenses like the EF 100-400mm.
2. If you’re starting fresh: Consider RF lenses for their better compatibility and future-proof design. You could start with versatile lenses like the RF 24-105mm f/4L or RF 100-500mm f/4.5-7.1L if you shoot wildlife.
3. Budget Constraints: Use EF lenses with an adapter to save money, especially since the adapter maintains great performance.

6 ways to get the best image quality

This video from Duade Paton was shot 3 years ago and still valid today. One thing I love from this photographer is that gives you tips that will not require you to buy super expensive gear. Even more he gave you the required information for you to buy good old lenses that still work well with your Canon camera. 

Expose to the right

Exposing to the right is a technique that helps to reduce the amount of noise in your pictures. The following video explains how to expose to the right.