What do you like and what do you dislike about Canon?

This is a good question. 

I love Canon's color science — the colors straight out of the camera are natural, vibrant, and especially flattering for skin tones. Whether shooting landscapes, portraits, or wildlife, Canon’s color rendering consistently delivers pleasing and true-to-life results. No wonder why it's one of the reasons many photographers trust Canon for both professional and personal work. 

 Another point that I love is the ergonomic design — they just feel right in your hands. Whether you're holding an entry-level DSLR or a high-end mirrorless body, Canon has consistently prioritized comfort and usability. The grip is deep and well-contoured, allowing your fingers to wrap around it naturally, which is especially important during long shooting sessions or when using heavier lenses.

Buttons and dials are intuitively placed, so you can make quick adjustments without taking your eye off the viewfinder. The layout feels purposeful — not overcrowded, but with just enough control at your fingertips to stay in the flow of shooting. Even smaller models retain that same thoughtful design, making them easy to hold and operate with one hand.

This attention to tactile experience isn't just about convenience; it’s about confidence. When a camera feels solid, balanced, and easy to operate, you’re more likely to focus on creativity rather than fumbling with settings. For many photographers — beginners and pros alike — that’s part of what makes shooting with a Canon feel so natural.

If you’re shooting wildlife or using heavier lenses, Canon and Nikon generally offer a more comfortable grip. If you're after compactness or cutting-edge tech, Sony leads — but you may sacrifice a bit of tactile comfort. 

Photo taken with a Canon R6.

What I dislike? The lack of third-part lenses for RF Mount. I believe Canon is taking advantage of the lack of third-party options for the RF mount to keep prices high. But to be fair, Canon’s prices aren't wildly higher than Sony's or Nikon's first-party lenses. 

Other than that, I love Canon. Keep in mind that I have used Nikon and I have used Sony. Nothing is wrong with these brands.   

A shot that I'm looking to replicate this year

Back in 2018 I took this picture. 

In St. Augustine, Florida, the Castillo de San Marcos, a 17th-century Spanish stone fortress, hosts historical reenactments that include live cannon firing demonstrations. These are part of educational and ceremonial programs conducted by National Park Service rangers and reenactors in Spanish colonial uniforms. I was lucky enough to be there at the right moment when this ceremony was being played in 2018 and managed to get this shot. According to Google these demonstrations, still, usually take place at on weekends at 10:30 AM, 11:30 AM, 1:30 PM, 2:30 PM, and 3:30 PM. We will be there on a weekend and be busy during Saturday shooting a Karate competition, but we are planing to visit the downtown on Sunday. 

That's the logistic behind the shot. Technically, I shot this picture using a Nikon D5200, at 1/800 with an ISO of 100.  Now I'm armed with a Canon R6 Mark I, I'm planning to take a Tamron 28-300mm on this trip to have more flexibly in the angle. From the point of view of settings, I'll set the camera in Shutter Priority with the lens wide open and Auto ISO with a shutter speed of 1/1000. Shutting a fast burst, I do not see a chance of missing the shot with the Canon R6 and these settings. A key point is to start shooting right before the cannon is fired.

As you can see, if you want to capture specific shots, you need to analyze the situation and mentally prepare a plan that includes your camera settings. This is where knowing how to shoot in Manual, Aperture Priority, or Shutter Priority becomes a real advantage. Shooting in full Auto, on the other hand, is unlikely to deliver the results you're after.

By the way, I used ChatGPT to check these settings and surprisedly enough, this AI took recommended the same settings. 

Here is an interesting fact, I asked ChatGPT how using the Tamron 28-300 lens would affect my shooting strategy and here is the answer:

How the Tamron 28-300mm Affects Your Setup

🔹 1. Variable Aperture Lens

• The max aperture shrinks as you zoom:

  • At 28mm: f/3.5

  • At 300mm: f/6.3

• Implication: If you're shooting at the long end (which you probably will), the lens is limited to f/6.3, so less light reaches the sensor. This may force:

  • Higher ISO (expect ISO 400–1600 depending on light)

  • Or slower shutter speeds if you're in Aperture Priority — which is why Shutter Priority is the better choice here.

✅ Your Move: Stick with Shutter Priority and set a minimum of 1/1000s. Let the camera open the aperture (up to f/6.3 at 300mm) and raise ISO as needed.

---

🔹 2. Image Stabilization (VC)

• The lens has Vibration Compensation (VC), which helps with camera shake, especially at longer focal lengths.

• BUT: It won’t help freeze subject motion (like the flame/smoke). That’s where fast shutter speed matters more.

✅ Your Move: Keep VC enabled for handheld shots, but don’t rely on it to freeze fast action.

---

🔹 3. Autofocus Performance

• This lens is versatile, but its autofocus speed isn't as fast as a high-end Canon RF lens.

• It might hunt in lower light or with fast-moving subjects — but for a static cannon setup, it’s fine.

✅ Your Move: Pre-focus on the cannon (manual focus or AF-ON button). Use Servo AF only if people are moving into the frame.

Between the EF70-200 L and the Tamron 28-300, ChatGPT selected the EF70-200 for this shot, but also mentioned the fact that the Tamron 28-300 was going to give me more flexibility, specially when I'll be shooting different scenarios in this visit. 

 

 

Never struggle with autofocus again

 I wish I had watched a video like this one from Jan Wegener explaining how to achieve focus in all wildlife photography situations when I started photographing birds and other animals. 

 If you have not subscribed to his channel, go ahead and do it. You won't regret it. 

Our grandsong Liam is asking

He asked where I photographed the hummingbirds and how I did it. He's only 8 years old, but he's already shown some interest in photography. Furthermore, he owns a point-and-shoot camera and understands how difficult it is to photograph wildlife—especially birds. 

 All the hummingbirds pictures I have been posting lately were taking at a local park, the Crews Lake Wilderness Park. I have been visiting this park every weekend for the last two years. During this period of time I have seen hummingbirds few times and managed to take one or two pictures of them. 

But over the past two weeks, I've taken nearly 50 pictures of them, both perched and in flight, and that probably sparked his curiosity. 

How did I do it?

As with any other wildlife, the first step is to know where they’ve been seen. There are many online sources where photographers and birders report their sightings. But in this case, I had spotted them a few times myself, so I knew for a fact they were there. The next step was to take note of where I saw them and what plants and flowers were in those areas. I noticed that they were particularly attracted to a flower called by locals Firebush (Hamelia patens). It's a native plant to Florida and other tropical regions, known for its tubular, reddish-orange to yellow flowers, which are very attractive to hummingbirds and butterflies. I spent time, hours, watching when and how often the hummingbirds visit the plants. Taking note of their preferred flowers and approach patterns — they tend to follow routines.

Hummingbirds flap their wings up to 70 times per second, so I used a shutter speed of 1/4000 ~ 1/5000 to freeze motion. For wing blur (artistic effect), you can try around 1/500s to 1/1000s, but that did not work for me because they were moving too fast from one flower to another. Using these fast shutter speed will result in a high ISO (25600) specially if the flowers are located in a shaded area. That means that a good post editing software is needed to clean the noise in these pictures. I used LrC and DXO PureRaw. 

I was predicting their flying pattern, pre-focusing in particular flowers, making it easier to focus on the bird approaching that area. Be patient, I spent hours standing quiet without moving to be sure that they got used to my presence. In 3 hours, I managed to take just 10 or so good pictures.  

You need to shoot bursts, in my case, using a mechanical shutter mode, from 4 to 12 frame per seconds in my Canon R6. Do not be surprised if you get one or two good pictures in each burst.  

Of course, you need a zoom lens for these photos. If the hummingbirds notice you, they for sure will fly away. This is why to be quiet and without moving is that important. 

 

Dear Liam, I know that at just 8 years old, you might not understand all the technical things I’ve mentioned here — and that’s perfectly okay. In time, you’ll learn all of it. The key word is time.

When it comes to photographing wildlife, being patient is essential. Staying quiet is very important. Moving slowly is key. Many animals and birds are territorial, and if you follow these simple rules, they’ll feel safe and return to the places they like. All you have to do is wait — and be ready to press the shutter button.

 

My first bird picture

I was recently watching an interview on YouTube where the conversation began with the first-ever nature photo taken by a professional wildlife photographer. That made me think about which one was my own first. Let’s start by saying that the photo below was taken with a Canon PowerShot SD750 — a camera no one seriously interested in wildlife photography would consider buying. That was in 2008!

I had no idea what I was doing — no sense of composition, no understanding of photography at all. It wasn’t until 2015 that I revisited the idea of wildlife photography, this time using a Nikon Coolpix S9700. It was a better camera with a 30x zoom, which I thought would help — though it was still just a point-and-shoot. I still wasn’t editing my photos, and to be honest, I used to think post-processing was a form of cheating. I wasn’t thinking about how to improve the raw image coming out of the camera.

Of course, a point-and-shoot camera with a 30x zoom didn’t meet my expectations. These cameras are meant for travel and casual photography — and while they may be good for that, they’re not suited for wildlife photography. That’s how I ended up getting my first DSLR, the Nikon D5200, and began taking wildlife photography more seriously.

10 years, 4 cameras and more than 80000 pictures later, here is where I'm today.

 

 It’s been a long and winding road — but a deeply rewarding one. Am I a good photographer? I’ll let you be the judge. As for me, I simply see myself as someone still walking that road, camera in hand, always learning, always looking for the light.

 

 

The most popular camera of the last 19 years!

And who better to tell us what the most popular camera of the last 19 years is than LensRentals, a company whose business is renting cameras, lenses, and other photography-related accessories?

To me, it is not a big surprise to see the Canon 5D Mark III in the first place.  The Canon 5D Mark III struck a perfect balance between performance, image quality, durability, and features — making it a favorite for nearly a decade. Even after newer models like the 5D Mark IV and mirrorless EOS R-series came out, many photographers continued to trust it as a reliable, high-quality camera.

Not long ago, I traded my Canon R7 for a Canon R6 and a Canon 5D Mark III as a backup camera. Both cameras made it onto this list.

 

ChatGPT, wonderful tool for photographers.

 I ran an experiment with ChatGPT to check its logic picking lenses for my next trip. Here is what I asked:

From these lenses, which 2 would you pick to travel with: Canon EF70-200mm L, Canon EF28-80mm L or Tamron 28-300mm? 

And here is the response: 

For travel, I’d pick the Tamron 28-300mm and the Canon EF 70-200mm L — here's why:

1. Tamron 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3

• Ideal for travel: One-lens solution covering wide to telephoto.

• Lightweight and versatile: You can shoot landscapes, street, portraits, and even some wildlife without switching lenses.

• Compact: Compared to carrying multiple L lenses, it’s easier to manage while walking or hiking.

2. Canon EF 70-200mm L

• Excellent optical quality: Razor-sharp images, fast focus, great for portraits and distant subjects.

• Durability: Built like a tank, perfect for serious travel and challenging weather.

• Pairs well with the Tamron: You can use the Tamron most of the time and switch to the 70-200mm when you want top-quality shots, especially for wildlife or compression shots.

---

Why Not the 28-80mm L?

• Great image quality, but...

• Too much overlap with the Tamron’s range.

• Less useful on its own unless you're only doing general street and landscape photography — and even then, the Tamron can cover that plus more.

---

If weight is critical:

Only take the Tamron 28-300mm. It covers almost everything, and you’ll save space and effort.

If image quality and reliability are more important, and you're okay carrying two lenses:
Tamron 28-300mm + Canon 70-200mm L is a powerful combo.

End of the Response. 

As you can see, it makes a lot of sense and the response is technically correct. The Tamron 28-300 while is not that sharp, it's a decent lens that I have used before in some occasions. Here is one of the pictures I took using this lens. 

  I think that I'll follow ChatGPT advise. 

From last weekend

I’ve been a bit busy this week and haven’t had time to post my favorite photo from last weekend—sorry about that! So here it is.

I like this one because of the hummingbird’s pose; it looks as if it was observing me.

Then and Now, do you see the difference?

Photography allows you to track your progress by comparing photos taken in the past with more recent ones. For example, here’s a picture of a hummingbird I captured back in January 2021.

And here’s a recent photo I took of the same bird.

Back then, I was using a Sony a7R III with a Sigma 100-400mm Contemporary lens. Now I’m using a Canon R6 Mark I paired with a Canon EF 100-400mm L Mk II and a 1.4x extender. With the settings I had on the Sony a7R III, there was no way I could have captured a shot like the one I took with the R6. The shutter speed on the Sony was set to 1/500—fast enough to photograph the bird while it was perched. But if I could go back in time, I would have set the shutter speed to 1/5000, as I did with the R6, to increase the chances of getting a sharp image in case the bird decided to take flight.

Another key difference is the editing software. At the time, I was using CorelDRAW Photo-Paint, whereas now I rely on Adobe Lightroom Classic.

When comparing the two images, the hardware didn’t make as much of a difference as the editing tool—and my experience using it. I never quite mastered Photo-Paint to the point of achieving the results I get now with Lightroom Classic. On the other hand, I have to say that Lightroom Classic feels like the ideal editing tool, at least for me, specially when you use this took with DXO PureRaw for denoising the photo.

Clearly, just four years ago, I didn’t yet have the skills to achieve the level of quality I see in my photos today. It makes me wonder where I’ll be in another four years.

 

Nature's Moments No 25

 

Nature's Moments No. 24

 

The EF70-200 f/2.8 IS II USM

The EF 70-200mm f/2.8 IS II USM is my favorite lens for indoor events. Yes, it’s a heavy lens—but the image quality it delivers is excellent.

If you can’t afford the RF version, I highly recommend picking up this EF version. It’s still a fantastic performer, especially for the price you can find it at on the second-hand market.

You can find more about this lens in this video. 

 

Initiating your kid into Wildlife photography

Wildlife photography—when taken seriously—is an expensive hobby. Even an entry-level camera paired with a decent lens can easily reach the $1,000 mark.

If you search on Amazon, you'll find a flood of inexpensive, often Chinese-made cameras marketed for kids. But let’s be honest: I haven’t come across a single one that delivers decent image quality—whether in still photos or video—despite their impressive claims about megapixels and 4K resolution.

So, what should you do if you have a child under 10 years old who’s starting to show a real interest in wildlife photography?

The answer lies in the second-hand market. If you're patient and avoid jumping on the first deal you see, you can find older bridge cameras for under $100.

I’ve been searching for a decent camera, with a good zoom and the shape and feel of a DSLR—something that’s really important when buying for a 10-year-old who’s constantly watching you use your gear and already has a sense of what a "real" camera looks like.

After some research, I’ve narrowed my options down to two Fujifilm models (Amazon links do not represent the best price for used cameras):

•     The Fujifilm S4200, with a 576mm zoom
•     The Fujifilm S8200, with a 960mm zoom

You can find more technical details about both cameras here. 

I'm not claiming these are the best options out there—if you have any recommendations, feel free to leave a comment below.

Keep in mind that for a kid, a camera is, among other things, a toy—and toys tend to take a fair amount of abuse. That’s the main reason why, in your first attempt to introduce them to more serious photography, you probably don’t want to spend more than $100.

Depending on how long the camera lasts (and how interested they stay), you can always move up to a higher price range with better features and image quality later on.

Real life comparison

Yesterday, I was writing about the ongoing controversy around the idea that “a good camera gives you good pictures,” and I briefly compared DSLR cameras to smartphones. However, I didn’t go too deep into that comparison. While it might seem like a no-brainer at first, this video dives into the details and explains it thoroughly.

 

A good camera doesn't mean good pictures

A good camera can certainly help in taking better pictures, but it's not the only factor. ;

This is an old debate that I often come across online—and even at home. Part of the confusion comes from us photographers, of all levels, who buy a camera with a lens and then keep buying more lenses and even more cameras. To an outside observer, this behavior may look like proof that, in order to take a good picture, you need an expensive camera and a high-end lens. But let’s try to clarify the reality.

One day, you decide to take up photography as a hobby—or maybe even professionally—after using your phone for a while and reading online that the image quality from a DSLR or mirrorless camera is far superior to that of a smartphone. By thinking this way, you're already validating the myth that buying a better camera means taking better pictures. Yes, it’s true that a phone simply can’t house a lens and sensor large enough to match the quality of a dedicated camera. But today’s smartphones are equipped with powerful software, including AI, that captures multiple images in milliseconds and merges the best parts of each one. That’s how you get those beautiful, balanced images straight from your phone. Still, these images often lack the sharpness and detail you can achieve with a DSLR or mirrorless camera, which uses larger, higher-quality lenses and sensors.

So, you buy your first DSLR—but your photos don’t look as good as the ones from your phone. Why? Because modern cameras still don’t include the kind of advanced AI software that your phone uses. Why not? Simply put, your phone contains expensive, high-performance hardware designed to run those AI applications. Including similar processing power in a camera would drastically increase its cost. Camera manufacturers believe that you, the photographer, should make the creative and technical decisions—by configuring the camera properly and editing the photos afterward—to achieve great results.

To take great pictures with your new DSLR, you need to know your camera inside and out, and you need to dedicate time to post-processing. Now you understand why photographers who take amazing images with big cameras and long lenses often feel frustrated when people assume that it’s all about the gear. It’s not.

Another factor that feeds this myth is that your newly bought camera might not actually match your specific photography needs. You might buy a crop-sensor camera, only to find that you mostly shoot in low-light conditions—where a full-frame camera would perform better. Even among full-frame models, not all have the same dynamic range or low-light capabilities. You’ll likely discover these differences after taking hundreds or thousands of photos. But those who see you switch gear might think it’s further proof that better cameras equal better pictures, without understanding the importance of choosing the right tool for the job.

The same misunderstanding happens with lenses. Lenses are built depending on the task, they could be designed specifically for portraits, landscape or wildlife photography. People assume that you're buying a new lens because a "better lens" guarantees better pictures. That line of thinking completely ignores what makes a photo superb.

A good photo usually has a clear subject, strong composition, appropriate lighting, sharp focus, accurate or intentional color, emotional or storytelling value, and a degree of technical and creative skill. None of these depend solely on your camera. Your camera is a tool—and like any tool, it’s only as good as your ability to use it well.

A good camera can certainly help in taking better pictures, but it's not the only factor. While a high-quality camera with advanced features can offer more control and potentially better image quality, the photographer's skill, also play crucial roles.

Last weekend

 I believe the main protagonists from last weekend were the alligators. 

There were people stealing fish from people fishing on the pier. In the image provided, you can observe the incredible speed at which this individual was leaping out of the water in an attempt to capture one of those fish. 

Nature's Moments No. 23

 

Nature's Moments No. 22

 

Please Subscribe to my YouTube Channel. 

Canon added password protection to some cameras

Canon has added password protection to 10 of its cameras: EOS R1, EOS R3, EOS R5 Mark II, EOS R5, EOS R6 Mark II, EOS R7, EOS R8, EOS R10, EOS R50, and the EOS R50V, according to news posted here.

While some level of protection has been requested by photographers, imagine a wildlife photographer having to enter a password just as a bird or animal suddenly appears in view. A password prompt when turning the camera on for the first time might make sense—but not when waking the camera from sleep mode.

 

Use a real camera instead your Phone

Phones have come a long way in the past two decades, but I still advise my friends to use a real camera instead of their phones.

The following video explains why. 

The reality of Instagram

 Instagram came from a page for photographers to be another TikTok. 

A quick timeline:

• Launched on October 6, 2010, Instagram started as a photo-sharing app with built-in filters that made it easy to stylize mobile photos.

• You could only post square images (1:1 aspect ratio), and videos were not part of the platform at all.

• The focus was entirely on mobile photography, creativity, and visual storytelling.

Evolution:

• 2013: Instagram introduced video sharing (up to 15 seconds).

• 2016: They added Instagram Stories (inspired by Snapchat).

• 2020: Reels were launched to compete with TikTok

From what I have experienced in my comeback to use it since 2020 when I created my account, it's not longer a tool for photographers. If you do not create videos, basically it's hard for you to get any exposure and followers. 

At this point, only Flickr remains an option for photographers.  

19 Years on YouTube!

 Unbelievable. It has been 19 years since I created my account at YouTube!

Please subscribe to my Channel to receive Nature shorts and videos. 

Do you use a tripod?

 I do not. Do I own one? I do. I feel that it limits me from moving around when needed, especially if I'm doing wildlife photography. Besides, current cameras and lenses with image stabilization are really good nowadays. 

More than 80 thousands pictures

Just something to think about:

If you like my pictures, keep in mind that it took me over 80,000 shots to reach the level you see today — and that’s not even counting the 20,000 to 30,000 photos I deleted because they weren’t good enough.

If you don’t like my pictures or my style, remember that even after 80,000 photos, I’m still learning.

Practice, practice and more practice.

  

I'm ready for my next adventure: short nature videos.

The story behind a photo

Here’s something interesting: during our visit to the local zoo, we spotted a barred owl perched in a tree — right inside the open enclosure where the barred owls were on display.

I’ve also spotted a few other birds in the area around the zoo — species that are usually quite hard to find there. It seems like the zoo’s environment attracts a surprising variety of wildlife beyond the exhibits themselves.

From the last long weekend

 Last weekend was a long one, full of great photo opportunities. It started with a bit of rain, and for a moment, I thought it might ruin our plans. But that didn’t happen — and here are some of the pictures to prove it.

 

These pictures were taken at Homosassa Springs Park — a beautiful place. The rattlesnake photo was edited using the new Lightroom Classic feature that removes reflections from glass. As you can see, it worked very well.

Later in the weekend, I visited the local park near home, where I took a few more pictures worth mentioning — like this one of an alligator stealing a huge catfish from a fisherman.

Or this shot of a spoonbill in flight. Flying spoonbills are as striking as flamingos in the air.

I shot three short videos (1, 2, and 3), and if you haven’t hit the 'Subscribe' button on my YouTube channel yet, I’d love to see you do it — you won’t regret it!

 

 

 

It's in his DNA!

This weekend, our grandson surprised me by bringing his camera during a visit to a local zoo. 

I looked at some of his pictures, and they were quite good. 

Nature's Moments No. 21

 

Nature's Moments No 20

 

Nature's Moments No. 19

The difference between the Canon R1, R5 Mark II and the R3

Jeff Cable, a renowned photographer, had the fortunate opportunity to test the Canon R1 during the Olympic Games. He recently shared an article comparing these three cameras: R1, R3 and R5 Mark II . It’s a must-read for photography enthusiasts. 

 

Here is his conclusion: 

All of these cameras are excellent bodies for any photographer, capturing images at fast burst rates and with excellent focus abilities, but as you can see, they each have their pluses and minuses.

You can find my list of recommended photography gear here.

Nature's Moments No. 18

AI Possibilities

The possibilities of AI are endless, and there’s no better way to prove this than with a video.

My Recommended Gear Storefront

 I have put together a list of camera gears and photography relative devices that I would not hesitate to recommend to anyone looking for a purchasing advice. I hope that this page will help you in your decision taking process. The page contain affiliate links. If you click on these links and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. This helps support the maintenance of the blog and my passion for photography. However, please rest assured that my opinions about the products mentioned are not influenced by this compensation. 

Nikon P1100

Lately, I’ve noticed at least two birders in my area using either a Nikon P1000 or the P1100. With the release of the P1100, the price of the P1000 dropped, and undoubtedly, some birders seized the opportunity to purchase this camera with its exceptional zoom capabilities.

The image quality of either the P1000 or the P1100 won’t win any photography contests, but it will be sufficient for this task.